We were both quiet on the journey from Kathmandu airport to our hotel, both later admitting thoughts of “what have we done …”. The guest house that I had booked on the Internet for 12 US dollars a night was pretty basic and didn’t help the the mood and we both wondered why we had been so tight with our money. For $12 it was fine but we didn’t need to go that far down the budget. There was nothing wrong with it – except that there was hardly any hot water and we couldn’t swing a cat let alone the 6 pieces of luggage we had bought with us. Navigating the streets of Thamel, the travellers heart of Kathmandu that we are drawn to wherever we visit Nepal, I suddenly realised I had moved to a country I hadn’t visited for 10 years. Never mind what might have changed, I couldn’t remember what it used to be like!