Off-the-beaten-track Latvia: Zeltini Missile Base

Zeltini (also spelt Zeltiņi or Zelteni) Missile Base sits deep in the forest of northeastern Latvia, close to the borders with Russia and Estonia. In fact, as is the norm with these former Soviet military bases, it’s in the middle of absolutely nowhere: the nearest...

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Off-the-Beaten-Track Estonia: Visiting Hara Submarine Base

In spite of its dramatic setting, when it comes to rummaging around abandoned places, the decommissioned, and once top secret, Hara Submarine Base is a fairly tame experience. Unless you have access to a boat, you’re limited to the section of the base that is...

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In Photos: Street Art in Banja Luka, Bosnia & Herzegovina

I wasn’t expecting much of a street art scene in Banja Luka but as is my habit on arriving in a new city, I did a quick Instagram hashtag search. A couple of murals stood out and it was enough to make me want to investigate further. On the search for murals in Borik...

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Off-the-Beaten-Track Estonia: Amari Pilot Cemetery

Not far from the partly submerged and now abandoned Rummu Prison, there is a small cemetery containing some rather unusual tail fin gravestones. The area is home to a large airbase which hosts the NATO-backed Baltic air-policing mission, an air defence system put in...

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What to do in Pristina, Kosovo

A mini-guide of things to do in Pristina, capital of Europe’s newest nation Where is Pristina, Kosovo? Before we get into the details of what there is do in Pristina, let's put it on the map! Tucked away in the Balkans region of Europe and once part of Yugoslavia, is...

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Abandoned Bosnia & Herzegovina: Motel Emos in Miljevina

On history and abandoned hotels in Bosnia... We had been driving south from Sarajevo for a few hours, admiring the stunning colours of a sunny Bosnian autumn day when we came across this abstract piece of architecture on the outskirts of Miljevina, a...

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Street Art in Pristina… and the Newborn Monument

Seeking out street art in Pristina plus a look at the changing face of the Newborn Monument – a guide for independent travellers to Kosovo in the Balkans. If you look hard enough you will find street art in Pristina, just in a more unconventional form.

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Abandoned Estonia: Rummu Prison

Urban Exploration at an Underwater Abandoned Jail in Estonia The bulk of the now-abandoned Rummu prison is best seen from under the water. Funnily enough, we don’t carry diving gear with us on a road trip. In fact, neither of us can actually dive so we had to be...

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What we got up to in the Baltic States and the Caucasus

Not the typical tourist attractions: Alternative sightseeing on our travels In no particular order, our priorities on our recent 2½ month trip to the Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, and Armenia, Georgia and Abkhazia in the Caucasus were as follows:...

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Belgrade’s Modern City Gates | Serbia Travel Guide

The Genex Tower and Rudo: iconic tower blocks in the Serbian capital When I first heard about Belgrade’s Western and Eastern City Gates, I conjured images of ancient, crumbling gates that were more symbols of the city rather than anything more practical or...

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